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135
Painting British & Pakistani Camouflage

introduction
Since this isn’t a full build feature, but a painting SBS, I won’t dwell too much on the kit itself, or review its features. However, I’d like to give you a quick overview of the project and how it was done.

The figure itself is Dragon’s Delta Force (#1610), from the 1/16 Warrior Series, a rather old kit. The project was to convert this figure into Lt.Aldeniya of the Sri Lanka Army’s 2nd (Volunteer) Singha Rifles, for the For Valour campaign. This was done by replacing the M4 carbine with a white metal AK-47, the revolver with an automatic, the head with a modified Tamiya one, scratching the magazine pouches, and replacing various other bits and pieces.

I have picked three different camouflage patterns for this figure, and these reflect the mix & match type of kit worn by Sri Lankan soldiers in the late ‘80s and early ‘90s. The bandana would be in US General Purpose (Woodland) pattern, the fatigue pants in British Temperate DPM, and the jacket in Pakistani ‘Bhutto’ pattern. Since the US camouflage has already been covered here on HFM before, this tutorial will deal only with the latter two patterns.

I will be using Revell enamels, and while those using acrylics or oils will have to take the individual idiosyncracies of their chosen medium into account when painting, the basic techniques and steps will remain more or less the same. Wherever possible I’ll give you the name of the shade, but if I can’t remember it, I’ll stick to the reference number to avoid confusion.

There are a couple of things to remember when painting modern uniforms, and particularly camouflage patterns. One is that (unlike WW2 uniforms) modern uniforms are just that – uniform. There is very little variation in colour between items of clothing when manufactured, and any variation in field uniforms is a result of external factors such as fading, dirt, wear, etc. It is also unlikely that there will be mismatched pieces (like arms on a jacket) as was often seen during WW2. So when painting (for example) the green portion of a camo pattern, make sure that you have sufficient quantities of the shade so that you can finish it in one go. If you are using the colour straight out of the tin, fine, but if not, mix up a good sized batch. Better to waste a bit than have to remix and not get the right shade.

About the Author

About David Blacker (spooky6)
FROM: SRI LANKA

My background is ex-Sri Lanka Army (infantry), and I am now an advertising art director, and parttime writer. I am a military history buff, and am specifically interested in the 20th Century to the present. I am primarily a fig modeller, concentrating on 1/16 because I love all the extra details ...


Comments

A good read - cheers David.
AUG 16, 2006 - 05:20 PM
One of the best DPMs I have seen in scale... great details on DPM "brush marks". Well done mate! Mario
AUG 16, 2006 - 06:29 PM
Thanks, guys. I love DPM
AUG 16, 2006 - 06:48 PM