Mixing Oil Paints

Introductions

Recently in the Figure Forum, Tin Can requested a list of color mixes that people use for painting with oil paints. When I responded with some of the mixes I have used, he suggested that I submit it to Armorama as an article. What I have done here is add photographs of the figures that have the listed color mix. This is only what worked for me. There are a lot of better painters out there with a lot of better ideas.

The term “paint for average” means that I paint the entire area with this color mix. Then, while the paint is wet, I paint in the shadows and blend to suit. Then I paint the highlights and blend to suit. After the paint is dry, I sometimes go back and redo the shadows and highlights, using a very small amount of the same paints and get more of a “glazing” effect.

I haven’t listed quantities or proportions for mixing because I don’t keep track of them. I just keep mixing until it looks right to me. Sometimes a mix will look fine on the palette paper, but look terrible on the figure. When this happens, I try to fix it on the figure by adding small dots of the needed color and blending it throughout. If that doesn’t work, I just wipe it off and start over.

I hope you all enjoy it.

 - Craig Whitaker

Note: Unless noted, all paints are Winsor & Newton.

Copyright ©2002 - Text and Photos by Craig Whitaker. All Rights Reserved.

Dark Blue Grey (helmet)

A: Undercoat with black (can be acrylic).
B: Mix Payne's Grey with T. White to a dark blue/gray. Paint for average.
C: Paint shadows with straight Payne's Grey.
D: Add more T. White to mix “B” to a medium blue/grey. Highlight with this mix.

German Field Grey

A: Undercoat with your favorite Field Grey model paint (I used Andrea brand)
B: Mix the following colors and paint for average:
Mix Blue/Black, Winsor Blue & Cadmium Yellow to a medium dark blue green shade. Lighten with T. White to match undercoat.
C: Shadow with Blue/Black.
D: Highlight with T. White

Note: Blue/Black is a paint from W&N, not a mix of 2 paints.



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About Craig Whitaker (mongo_mel)
FROM: PENNSYLVANIA, UNITED STATES

I've been building models since I was a kid back in the '60s. I did everything imaginable until the mid '80s when I decided to try and get serious about it. Like most of us, I credit the Shep Paine diorama sheets found in Monogram kits for my inspiration. When I made this decision, it was armor all ...