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For fantasy figures. Elves, dwarves, dragons, etc.
WIP :: Eldar Autarch
Tarok
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Posted: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 - 01:22 AM UTC
Hi guys,

Just a quick post with some progress pics. I'll try fill in the gaps with regards to paints and colours used when I get home later... (click the thumbnails for bigger pics)

Base Coat Applied



Wash Applied



Highlights and glaze applied



Sash BC'ed in



More of the same here: http://picasaweb.google.com/TarokZA/EldarAutarch

Pretty much following Jeff Wilson's method and colour scheme: http://uk.games-workshop.com/eldar/autarch-masterclass/2/

As I said, I'll fill in the gaps later this evening, but comments are welcome nonetheless

Rudi
1969
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Posted: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 - 05:57 AM UTC
Great work Rudi,i know nothing about the subject but i am impressed by thr way you manage to highlight and shadow on such a small scale.

Steve
insolitus
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Goteborgs och Bohus, Sweden
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Posted: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 - 08:08 AM UTC
Ah Eldar! played with those guys some years ago...they gave me many nice victories! That's a very effective way of shadow/highlighting you have found there, perhaps a bit dark for my taste, so I think some even lighter highlight on the very edges would be great!

Nice choice of subject and good work. Keep it up!
FingersEddie
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Posted: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 - 08:31 AM UTC
Great work, Rudi.

The highlights and shades look real nice.
Tarok
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Posted: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 - 08:46 AM UTC
Hi guys,

Thanks for the comments.

Steve, the shadows are easy.... it's just a wash after the base coat and the highlights are basically drybrushing

Andreas, thanks. I think to a certain degree my camera and lighting isn't quite right. The figure in general is actually a bit lighter than the pictures, unfortunately, show.

Paul, cheers mate. When I finish this one it'll be my first completed figure for 2007. Shocking!! I know!!!

Rudi
Tarok
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Posted: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 - 09:06 AM UTC
Okay, so as I mentioned earlier I am pretty much following Jeff Wilson's method and colour scheme, so I in no way want to take credit for the colour mixes here.

That said, here's how this figure has been painted thus far... all colours are Vallejo Model Colour unless otherwise stated...

Green armour

1. Basecoat (BC) with 970 Deep Green
2. Highlight 1 (HL1) with 838 Emerald
3. Wash with mix of Citadel Black Ink & Dark Green Ink (thinned with water, and a tiny drop of PVA glue added)
4. Repeat HL1 when wash dry
5. HL2 with 1:1 838 Emerald & 827 Lime Green
6. HL3 with 827 Lime Green
7. HL4 with 3:1 827 Lime Green & 951 White
8. Very thin glaze with Citadel Dark Green Ink

Other than that, the following BC's have been applied:

White cloak: 907 Pale Greyblue
Red sash: Citadel Scab Red
Black areas: 950 Black

The extra bits were added to the base using plastic ceramic clay, and Citadel sand and gravel mix.

The reason PVA glue is added to the wash is to help enhance the gathering qualities of the wash and produce a stronger contrast once dry.

Rudi
fanai
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Posted: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 - 12:53 PM UTC
Rudi Thank you I just learnt something - never heard of adding PVA to a wash - will try that tonight
Ian.
ps 1st figure this year aaargh -I would die
Tarok
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Posted: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 - 05:18 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Rudi Thank you I just learnt something - never heard of adding PVA to a wash - will try that tonight
Ian.
ps 1st figure this year aaargh -I would die



Hey Ian,

About the washes & PVA... similarly if you want to reduce the gather qualities (i.e. increase the flow), add a bit of dishwashing liquid to the mix

I actually picked that up from GW's Painting Citadel Figures book. There are actually quite a few interesting tips in the book

Yup, 1st figure.... I decided to start small

Rudi
Wendy
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Posted: Wednesday, July 04, 2007 - 01:09 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Paul, cheers mate. When I finish this one it'll be my first completed figure for 2007. Shocking!! I know!!!

Rudi



Well, it's not like you're not doing anything...between being managing editor and the sculpting you've done...

The Eldar looks nice and I like the colors you picked.
I've heard of using Future floor cleaner (or wax) in washes also, but I use Vallejo Matte Medium.

Wendy
Tarok
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Posted: Wednesday, July 04, 2007 - 05:59 AM UTC

Quoted Text



Well, it's not like you're not doing anything...between being managing editor and the sculpting you've done...

The Eldar looks nice and I like the colors you picked.
I've heard of using Future floor cleaner (or wax) in washes also, but I use Vallejo Matte Medium.

Wendy



Hehehe, thanks Wendy Appreciate the kind compliment.

I'm always a bit hesitant to "copy" someone elses colour schemes, but this one really appealed to me. I've never really done this type of green before - sure I've done convensional army greens, but this one is different.

I've heard tonnes about Future, but the mix here is different to the one you folks get up north. Might try the AV Matte Medium some time though. Cheers for the tip

Rudi
Vic
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Posted: Thursday, July 05, 2007 - 09:33 AM UTC

Hi Rudi,

It's looking really nice, the shading and highlights look great as has been said, very nice greens used. You make it sound easy but I bet it's not.
With greens like that I'll send you my little 95th rifles to do

Take it steady

Vic
FingersEddie
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Posted: Thursday, July 05, 2007 - 09:47 AM UTC

Quoted Text



The Eldar looks nice and I like the colors you picked.
I've heard of using Future floor cleaner (or wax) in washes also, but I use Vallejo Matte Medium.

Wendy



I found that its good to prime a painted piece with this stuff before applyin' a wash, 'cos a wash works better over gloss.
Tarok
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Posted: Thursday, July 05, 2007 - 05:41 PM UTC
Hey Vic,

Cheers for the comments mate

Believe it or not, it really is as easy as it sounds. And I'm really only using a no. 2 and no. 0 brush.... nothing smaller. I must say I almost find this smaller scale easier to work with than our conventional historical miniature scales.

Rudi

p.s. you had much rain in your area? Got a mate in Biggleswade which is IIRC close to Bristol?
Tarok
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Posted: Thursday, July 05, 2007 - 05:46 PM UTC
Hey Paul,

I think that's the beauty of using the inks mixed with the PVA. The inks flow easily over the 'normal' AV (matt) finish, but by adding the PVA it just helps it gather that little bit better.

Not sure what sort of effect one would get using these techniques on larger scales though.... Worth a try sometime if you don't mind experimentation

Rudi
Vic
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Posted: Friday, July 06, 2007 - 01:36 AM UTC

Hi Rudi,

I'll have to have a go at this method.

If it's Biggleswade in Bedfordshire then by South African terms its probably just next door but in English turms its a day trip at about 140 miles

We've had loads and loads of rain but thankfully no flooding in our area. Bad flooding in other parts of the country though.

Take it steady

Vic
Tarok
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Posted: Wednesday, July 11, 2007 - 05:28 PM UTC
Hey Vic,

Yeah, it is Biggleswade in Bedfordshire. I guess it's not as close as I thought a 2hr drive is not exactly right round the corner, even in SA terms

Rudi
Tarok
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Posted: Wednesday, July 11, 2007 - 05:33 PM UTC
Hi all,

A bit more progress, a few more pics... sorry about the lighting of the pictures. They looked fine on my laptop last night, but a bit dark on my work monitor....

The sash has been completed in this next pic



The next 2 show the white cloak and armour having being completed. In retrospect I'll more than likely be redoing the cloak - not entirely happy with it looking at the pics now....




Oh, and I've also done the black leather, which can sort of be seen above.

Rudi

ps more of the same but from other angles can be seen in the Picasa album in the first post...
fanai
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Posted: Wednesday, July 11, 2007 - 09:43 PM UTC
I like the deep red contrast mate :looking good
Ian
1969
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Posted: Thursday, July 12, 2007 - 05:53 AM UTC
I am just amazed at anyone who will even attempt to paint something that small,hat off to you Rudi.

Steve
Tarok
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Posted: Thursday, July 12, 2007 - 07:26 AM UTC
Thanks guys, appreciate the support.

I've replaced the above pics which I posted this morning with lightened pics. Please let me know if they are still too dark or grainy...

Thanks again

Rudi
FingersEddie
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Posted: Thursday, July 12, 2007 - 08:52 AM UTC
Great work, Rudi.

I've heard that washin' up liquid will make a wash flow better, too.
Tarok
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Posted: Thursday, July 12, 2007 - 09:25 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Great work, Rudi.

I've heard that washin' up liquid will make a wash flow better, too.



Hi Paul,

Thanks . Washing up liquid does indeed improve the flow of a wash - and acrylic paints. But you really need to decide what you are wanting to achieve from the wash. If you're wanting the shade, you will want the wash to gather more and add a more dramatic effect to your colour - then you would add the PVA glue. If you're just wanting to gently tone the underlying colours, you'd probably want something the flows easily...

Rudi
gbyrnsie
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Posted: Thursday, July 12, 2007 - 01:32 PM UTC
This is coming along nicely. You almost forget how small these guys really are.

GB
Tarok
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Posted: Thursday, August 09, 2007 - 08:23 AM UTC
Hi all,

A small update Autarch....

- The cloak has been re-base coated - will do last
- metal (gold & silver) bits done, final hihglights to be done
- Gems started
- sword finished
- groundwork painted, vegetation still to be 'planted', and dusted with pigments

i've also finished the wings, which I'm saving to show once the piece is completed

Comments and questions are as always welcome. Apologies if the pics are grainy, I only realised after editing that i'd forgotten my camera on a lower resolution than normal... oops









Rudi
FingersEddie
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Posted: Thursday, August 09, 2007 - 09:24 AM UTC
Beautiful progress, Rudi. I cannot help but think that your work looks even better viewed in the flesh. Takin' pictures of figures can be a little unsettlin' when blown up large like this, but your work is certainly holdin' up to this magnification.

Rudi, did you know that Tamiya X-19 Smoke works as a fantastic wash, better than Citadel inks. It flows beautifully and leaves no hard edges at all, its great. You'll need to thin it 50/ 50 with Tamiya X-20A acrylic thinners, though.