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Archer Casting Symbols
California, United States
Joined: October 21, 2007
KitMaker: 3,684 posts
Historicus Forma: 9 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 14, 2010 - 04:39 PM UTC
Jeff Nolan takes a look at Casting Symbols by Archer Fine Transfers from their surface details line, for both 1/35 and 1/48 scale.

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If you have comments or questions please post them here.

Connecticut, United States
Joined: April 02, 2005
KitMaker: 3,608 posts
Historicus Forma: 0 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 14, 2010 - 05:05 PM UTC
Thanks for the review, Jeff. I bought these and they are really easy to use and look great!
England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
Joined: August 12, 2005
KitMaker: 14,499 posts
Historicus Forma: 140 posts
Posted: Monday, March 15, 2010 - 06:39 AM UTC
Thanks Jeff, I've heard good things about these.

Colorado, United States
Joined: November 03, 2009
KitMaker: 56 posts
Historicus Forma: 0 posts
Posted: Monday, March 15, 2010 - 10:14 AM UTC
When using these transfers do you put them on then apply your "cast" texture over the top of them or texture first then add transfers?
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: January 18, 2003
KitMaker: 2,402 posts
Historicus Forma: 0 posts
Posted: Monday, March 15, 2010 - 01:37 PM UTC
I have just used these (along with Archer weld beads) and they are great looking, at least prior to painting which is as far as I've gotten. The only issue I have is that the researcher apparently provided Archer some bad info as there are several errors: The large H and W symbols should be in circular "C" outlines, not octagons; the low bustle turret P/N was D50878 not D50378; the Scullin Steel "SS" logo is incorrectly shaped; and the 1 numerals should have the little "hat" at the top, rather than a single stroke. A couple other letters are an incorrect typeface. I would also have included a few more very common US symbols such as the U-in-keystone and D-in-C. I was able to correct the octagon marks by trimming the corners away.

Other than the SOMUA hull plate emblems these really are suitable to several scales. The real symbols were varying sizes so a range of heights is needed even if you are only making a single scale.

To answer the question above, I apply these after making the cast texture. In addition to using Micro-Sol as recommended, I seal them down with Future floor wax. Decal solvent really doesn't work all that well as the symbol itself is a hard resin and impervious to setting solution. I will probably seal again with a local spray of acrylic clear prior to my final wash down before painting.

I plan to get another set next month at AMPS.

North Carolina, United States
Joined: September 08, 2008
KitMaker: 36 posts
Historicus Forma: 1 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 - 12:33 AM UTC
Hi Kurt,

Long time no hear.

Thank you for your comments. Please e-mail me directly at [email protected] if you'd like to help me make these changes so I can correct these issues on future sheets.

Woody Vondracek, owner
Archer Fine Transfers
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: January 18, 2003
KitMaker: 2,402 posts
Historicus Forma: 0 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 - 02:20 PM UTC
Hi Woody:

Will do.

New York, United States
Joined: August 03, 2005
KitMaker: 411 posts
Historicus Forma: 3 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 28, 2010 - 03:21 AM UTC
I just used a bunch of these weld beads on a Tamiya SU-85 and Italeri Pzkw-IV (stash builds for AMPS).

They are da bomb !!! They are very easy to use, and they really add to the look of an older kit.

One thing I found with the weld beads is to trim the decal film right up on the edge of the bead or else it will show under the paint. As Kurt notes, decal-setting solution doesn't seem to do much. The first few I tried lifted off a bit. After they dried I ran a bead of ordinary plastic cement down the bead to try to seal it in place. Then paint on top of that. They look great. Again, a lot of older kits lack weld beads. If you are building one of those, this is a very easy, cheap, fast way to make them look a lot better.